Sunday, 26 July 2015

Alex Mullins embraced nostalgia by going back to Art College for his ss16 collection which was held in a makeshift modern art studio. Models nonchalantly assembled themselves around colourful contemporary foam sculptures wearing languid outfits that resembled painter overalls while key looks were splashed head to toe in a psychedelic profusion of semi-fluorescent tones. Hypnotic tangerines and powers pinks surfaced on a canvas of oversized tees and belted coats as childish cartoon bugs bunny pics mixed with Spirograph squiggles in cocktail hues. Then denim jackets and jeans entered the artistic landscape in a hand-drawn collage of oil paint patterns like a Monet-esque mirage of multi-tonal brush-strokes. It was an unabashed art attack if ever there was one…J
art attack
alex mullins
ss16

Thursday, 23 July 2015

The Austrian based Berthold label let rip on London’s design scene for ss16 with a crisp and cutting-edge collection of clean colour-pop creations. Carefully cut sleek synthetics fused with sheer nylons and soft cottons to form a bold and brilliant myriad of magnetic magentas, hectic electric blues and Baltic black tones. Each colour choice found itself set against silhouettes based on smooth lines, precision symmetry and spellbinding simplicity which was as refreshing and as renegade as the revealing cuts and fabrics; think sheer gauze sweaters and see-through shorts mixed with plunging V cut coats, super short trunks and shoulder bearing tunics with striking oil slick shimmers. It was an eclectic and edgy collection with a pristine a pure soul, but with a powerful and provocative aftertaste…J 
design scene-stealers
berthold
ss16

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Arabian Nights met Chinese cherry blossoms at the Astrid Andersen show for ss16, with a mesmerising martial arts twist. Mystic models drifted onto the catwalk donning Middle Eastern inverted Fez hats like Jafar from Aladdin as Astrid’s typical sports-luxe look evolved into something more striking. Gym-bling bomber jackets and masculine mesh vests mixed with baggy baseball shorts and swagged out slogan sweat pants `for an aggressively athletic look. But this rapidly morphed into exaggerated oriental outfits that were strewn with opulent florals from distant Far Eastern locales. Oversized Buddhist monk tunics and robes billowed in brilliantly shimmering fabrics as kung fu karate kid silhouettes appeared in loose-fitting capes and karategi style coats. Some looks went further by evoking Arabic imagery with tunics and pants draping to the floor like the gowns worn by Muslim men when they head to the mosque. It was a powerful new perspective on modern sport-luxe staples…J
karate kids
astrid andersen
ss16



Saturday, 18 July 2015

Soulland took to the streets for ss16 with a slick collection of city essentials. Sporty bomber jackets, distressed denims and graffiti print jackets provided the ideal everyday wardrobe for the modern urban man who likes to chill in downtown NY’s hippest neighbourhoods at the weekend, or at the local skate-park.  On the other side of Soulland town, sharply cut tailored trousers, chinos, blazers and plaid shirts catered for the more refined gent who frequents sleek bars and restaurants and works in finance or PR at a sky-scrapper office in Manhattan. In this respect, both sides of the city coin were covered with an eclectic collection of wearable pieces that appealed to every aspect of living in an urban jungle. The colourful graffiti-strewn walls of the showspace confirmed this with an edgy but artistic vibe that was equally rebellious and intellectual at the same time. Think a Bronx back alley baseball court meeting a street-art exhibition at MoMA…J
urbane urbanites
soulland
ss16

Wednesday, 15 July 2015

Cmmn Sweden crafted a collection of disjointed but complimentary concepts for ss16 by blending city sophistication with college-kid apathy. Outfits centred around a collage of city office staples like fine pin stripe shirts, classic overcoats, tailored trousers and sensible ties, but this ordered ensemble was shaken up with rebellious references to youthful uni days where a baggy bomber jacket and jogging bottoms would do the job just fine. Distressed denim jackets and retro leather bikers were thrown over the smarter options to give each look a more relaxed and laid-back vibe that was much more ‘down with the kids’ than the dapper separates would appear on their own. The sprinkling of vibrant graphic prints and ‘don’t give a fuck’ materials like sheer made some looks even more edgy without totally lowering the tone. It was a perfectly balanced mixed of smart and slouchy which fused youthful energy with city slick seriousness… We loved it! J
street-smart staples
cmmn sweden
ss16




Saturday, 11 July 2015

Rebel kids created carnage in the Christopher Shannon show for ss16 as a full-throttle foam party frenzy faced us when rave-wrecked models hit the runway in a trippy mix of trance-ready looks. If was as if the Ibiza club kid crowd had just landed in San Antonio bay ready for a raucous spring break fuelled by sun, sea and sexy girls. Neon nightclub bombers and flashy fluoro tees fused with bubblegum bright striped party shirts to set the manic midnight mood, while trendy trainers, short shorts and sporty foam mesh jackets paved the way for a high-octane, party-hard outlook. This decadent all-night approach translated into sexually charged and provocative clothing which was laden with all the hallmarks of boys behaving badly. Cocky gauge knit tees flashed muscle in a confident and careless way while some models propped up the bar for post-coital cigarettes in suitably graphic Zippo lighter print sweaters. The ‘teenage tearaway’ undertones were made even more apparent when some of the more rebellious dirty stop-outs were seen leaving the fashion foam party covered in a sweaty foam froth with their conquests’ bikini bras wrapped around their chests; for aesthetic effect of course. It was a debauched and drug-fuelled mind-trip with trailblazing stylistic results J
foam party frolics
christopher shannon
ss16

Wednesday, 8 July 2015

Christopher Raeburn moved the mood eastwards at LC:M for ss16 by embarking on an adventurous expedition into Borneo’s rugged rainforests. Equatorial colourways immediately engulfed the exotic collection as palm-tree green shorts and bomber jackets mixed with lychee pink sweat tops and tees for a sultry tropic twist. Then mystic Borneo map prints suddenly appeared in pawpaw orange tones against bright graphic jumpers while some models ventured further into the wilderness with striking woollen sweaters featuring fun prints of playful swinging orangutans. The journey then took a more powerful and provocative passage as high-tech mesh jackets in tree-canopy camouflage prints infused a sense of gritty jungle warfare into some of the more militant looks. Sand-coloured chinos and big travel backpacks added an equally energetic edge to proceedings with a touch of sub- Saharan safari, which was mellowed by a sense of earthly spirituality emanating from the ethnic Amazonian references. Such ideas included the creation of shamanic tribal wrap-skirts, cork pocket vests and the repeated use of earth-friendly recycled materials. It was as if Indiana Jones had ventured into the depths of outback Indonesia for ss16, and we were left totally awe-inspired by this bold new fashion path, which showed a more eclectic side to Raeburn’s label… J
borneo brilliance
christopher raeburn
ss16