Saturday, 22 August 2015

JW Anderson hit headlines again this season with another gender-bending show that blurred lines between male and female style. Patent ruby red slippers started off the shenanigans with Wizard of Oz references as Geisha girl obi waists and tight chiffon shirts engulfed sculptural doll-like silhouettes. Sinuously shaped jumpsuits hugged figures like leotards while Kimono-esque jackets and lazily draped harem pants made us think of boho-girls on a blissed out beach. The floral looks at the show’s start reinforced this idea as cute puppy graphics on some of the sweaters evoked fashion-girls with their designer puppies. But things got more masculine and moody when arresting news headlines and numbers were suddenly splashed cross dapper polo-neck jumpers, and a bold workman’s bomber jacket appeared in road-work orange. A cross-word puzzle print  t-shirt reminded us of boring businessmen doodling on the Evening Standard after their long day in accounting, which brought the otherwise eccentric looks back down to the humble ground….:-)
nuanced newsflash 
jw anderson
ss16

Friday, 21 August 2015

Christopher Kane got all cubist and modern for ss16 with an artistic approach to boyish street-wear. Hypnotic hooded sweaters and dizzying shirts were cast in eclectic blocks and candy stripes that resembled Picasso paintings or Piet Mondrian collages, while shorts, totes and jumpers joined in with similarly creative patterns. The colour palette ranged from sickly sweet shop purples and pinks to Haribo-esque neons that looked saccharine yet totally addictive. Things were later softened with smart macaroon suiting which was finished off the addition of a colour-pop clutch to reinforce the artistic endeavours. Overall, it was a bold collection that stuck to Kane’s simple silhouettes with a fresh and vibrant twist…J
cubist chaos
christopher kane
ss16

Tuesday, 18 August 2015

Coach came back on the radar for ss16 with a highly saturated collection of rainbow-hued pieces which were worn with an irresistible sense of surfer-dude nonchalance. Multi-coloured windbreakers and bombers stood out in a brilliant array of tropical tones as shaggy-haired model dudes strolled onto the catwalk in shades like California beach bums. The blissed out beach break vibe was solidified further with stripy t-shirts and statement baggy boardshorts that seemed to be drenched in a tropic cocktail punch, while woolly purple sweaters and cherry red jackets looked as delicious as the sugar-sweet colourways. Coach seemed to be forging ahead with a new style direction by leaving its stiff past behind and venturing into much more fun-focused territories, which, from our perspective, can only be a good thing…J
california dreaming
coach
ss16

Saturday, 15 August 2015

Sensational Sibling went for the fun factor again this LC:M with a frivolous collection featuring buffed-up college jock sportswear. Bright colours and vivid varsity slogans made the mood playful and rebellious while bringing back memories of school days where nothing really mattered and pleasure was the main aim of the game. Beefy baseball players hit the runway in a ravishing collage of varsity vests and blindingly colourful bombers while wearing super tight track pants with their jock straps, and butt cheeks (purposefully) spilling out. If this wasn’t attention-grabbing enough, spritely cheerleaders then made a dramatic entrance in ethnic knitted dresses and colour-pop pom poms as the baseball game spectators joined in with Americana denim jackets, cool paisley polos and smart Princeton-esque chinos. The sequin sports jerseys and muscular beaded shoulder pad looks took the already saturated sports-luxe vibe to even more playful levels, making ever onlooker smile with amusement and awe. Forget standard varsity attire; this was Americana sportswear for jaw-dropping drops of modern fashion…;-)
jock strapping jocks
sibling
ss16

Thursday, 13 August 2015

Several is a smartly simple but striking menswear label which is giving modern British menswear a new lease of life through subdued sub-cultural tailoring. Quality craftsmanship, classic cuts and an understated preppy vibe denote the hallmarks of Several’s soft but slick aesthetic for ss16, which echoes English public school heritage and Ivy League drama. But look closely, and things are not as traditional as they may first appear to be. Basic masculine tailoring is instantly transformed with the use of bold tones like pop-tastic cherry red while exposed stitching, sheer panelling and colour-contrast fabric linings shake things up with daring contemporary edges. These subtle but impactful changes to contemporary men’s tailoring were enhanced in the quirky showspace which featured attention-grabbing slogans and random candy-coloured pictures on the walls..:-)
ivy leaguers
several
ss16

Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Psychedelic Chinese label Sankuanz continued on a hallucinogenic journey to high-end street-wear for ss16 with subliminal parallel dimension references and mind-bending prints. Oversized silhouettes featuring wide leg shorts and long length shirts were layered with overcoats and bombers to produce a tribal aesthetic that was baggy and Asian-inspired, like ancient Terracotta warriors. Neon green digital patterns appeared on dark roll neck sweatshirts, like something out of the Matrix while manic multi-coloured hues adorned tops and shorts in swirling prints that were probably as dizzying as a deviant drug session. We loved the orange PVC coat and the splashes of Palma violet purple to calm things down with a touch of sweet pastel serenity…J
parallel dimensions
sankuanz
ss16

Saturday, 8 August 2015

House of Holland’s debut menswear show at LC:M was a heady vortex of hedonistic mayhem which blinded and bedazzled us with kaleidoscopic prints and colour. There was a rebellious mood in the air as cheeky laddish models sported attention-grabbing slogans across bold shirts and jumpers with a humorous Cockney flair. Cocky terms like ‘legend’ and ‘lover’ stole the limelight while swirling trance patterns and fluoro colours on shirts and sweaters made us think of Brit ‘lads on the lash’ in a local nightclub or drinking joint. The jumper with a fried egg print on it simply confirmed the party-hard vibe by forcing us to envisage the morning after the night before, and greasy spoon breakfasts on a terrible hang-over. The collection was as bright and brash as Henry Holland’s womenswear, with an added masculine swagger that was super swagged out and totally entrancing. We loved it all! J
legendary lads
house of holland
ss16