Thursday, 21 April 2016

Bora Aksu brought a touch of baroque glamour to London Fashion Week in his aw16 show by showcasing it in a medieval church with extravagant classical proportions. The decadent external turrets fused with the opulent features of the church organ as models glided down the altar with glistening stain glass windows behind them. But the classical elegance didn’t end with the elaborate church architecture; flowing gowns and ornate dresses quickly appeared in lavish lace with fanciful floral cut-outs, while rich colours like rosehip, burgundy and cornfield gold added a ravishing Renaissance painting twist to the ancient Cathedral ambience. Black blossoms gave a gothic edge to the evocative evening dresses, which ranged from holy and wholesome styles to overtly racy designs that exploited flashy sheer panels to reveal the flesh beneath. Then knee length lace up boots upped the ante with a random but fitting punk dimension that brought the otherwise timeless and archaic mood to a more modern and cutting-edge zenith. It was a bold show that drew inspiration from the past while transforming the future with a pulse-racing prowess… J
holy trinity
bora aksu

Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Tourne de Transmission tore up the fashion rule-book again during LC:M with a somewhat dystopian vision of distressed and dishevelled fabrics. Male silhouettes looked somewhat ragged and roughed up as ruffled jumpers, patchwork jackets and frayed denims dominated a loose layering that couldn’t really care less (in a good way).  The entire collection had a recycled quality that was classic and timeless in its approach, using patterns like plaids and colours like light blue and camel. But things were made to look purposely rebellious and cutting-edge with odd pairings and directional deconstruction. The models themselves grounded this assumption with a mix of Nirvana haircuts and skinhead styles, rounded off with secretive cult black shades….:-)
dark dystopia
tourne de transmission

Saturday, 9 April 2016

The cult Scandinavian clothing label Soulland decided to set fire to Danish minimalism at L:CM this season by showcasing its new collection on the gritty streets of central London amidst burned out cars and graffiti strewn scrap metals. An almost apocalyptic setting of chaos and calamity awaited onlookers in an overgrown park setting, where models posed by a bombed out vehicles that had clearly been the target of rebellious vandals. The tumultuous scene followed through in the clothing with gang-land bomber jackets, black gloves and piercings cropping up amongst the pose of menacing models as wild leaf prints entangled their way around denim jackets and punky red plaids looked riotous. But serenity was restored with white overcoats and camel coloured scarves which softened the otherwise intimidating mood…J
urban rebellion

Thursday, 7 April 2016

Christopher Shannon’s somewhat enduring 90s obsession continued without fail for aw16 as he showcased lurid and loud tracksuits in a flurry of ‘Fun House’ colours. Candy pink and cobalt blue seemed to be the hues of choice while slick skinny jeans in sky blue mixed with slogan white tees and peachy pastel shirts to mellow things out a little. But the future was also on Shannon’s mind as he transformed the sporty looks into avant-garde statements of things to come. Neon PVC jackets looked almost space-age with their sharp lines and shimmering star-light shine which was enhanced by the strobe studio spotlights, while chest pockets on hoodies emerged in fluoro plastics that looked edgy and industrial. Shannon was clearly praising the past while embracing a brighter tomorrow…J
fun house futures
christopher shannon

Wednesday, 6 April 2016

Common Sweden harked back to the early seventies for aw16 with an eclectic collection featuring earthy Woodstock hues interspersed with splashes of 90s sportswear. A nostalgic vibe was instantly invoked by carrot orange trousers, caramel brown biker jackets, prolific polo necks and granny-esque cosy plaid coats that would have blended in fine in a psychedelic seventies living room featuring gaudy geometric wallpaper on the walls. But 90s street-obsessed dressing also appeared to mix things up a bit in the form of padded puffa jackets and zip-up stripped tracksuit tops. Images of TLC music videos and JLo in her candy pink tracksuit with Ja Rule in ‘I’m Real’ naturally followed as a result. But things were soon smartened up using classic duffle coats and shiny shoes to bring back a shy school-boy like charm to things…J
retro rewind
common sweden

Thursday, 3 March 2016

It initially felt like the circus had just rolled into town when the MAN show reached its climax for LCM as paper Mache clown statues were wheeled onto the catwalk. Then the models hit the runway to confirm our puzzled and perplexed feelings. A fantastical flurry of eclectic hair designs was the first obvious sign of manic mayhem as models weaved their way around a colourful cacophony of ‘cirque du soleil’ style sculptures. But the raucous mood was more thoroughly entrenched in the clothing which layered itself up like an Alice in Wonderland triple tier tea cake. Random face prints on ripped jumpers looked as deranged as the Mad Hatter while paint splash prints on leather pants looked accidental but intentional, like a humorous circus sideshow. But this was certainly no frivolous funfair, but instead a much more professional attempt at making the crowd go ‘wow.’ Bright and breezy colours from turquoise to candy floss pink set the psychedelic scene instantly while random prints like rainbow plaids were pared with clashing yet complimentary staples, like a perfectly rehearsed performance. Expert tailoring with a oversized edge summed up the professional yet elaborate mood, like award winning acrobats at the Moscow State Circus...:-)
circus showdown
rory parnell mooney
MAN aw16

Tuesday, 1 March 2016

Astrid Andersen sweetened her sordid sports-luxe style this season at LCM by whipping up some softer sorbet shades and serene woollen looks. The confident and cocky collegiate jock vibe was still present in her somewhat predictable format of sweat pants, gym hoodies and Americana football slogans. But things had a more sugary flavour this time round with the use of pristine peppermint and pistachio hues. Supple neoprene sweatshirts were instantly transformed into lip-smacking saccharine delights using mint choc chip colourways that resembled glorious gelato, while techy fabrics gently creased and folded like the rippling swirls of ice cream sundaes. The introduction of perfectly curvaceous cable knits on the newly crafted range of jumpers added to fresh and creamy visions of slick ice cream cone curls as the idea of handmade artisan knitwear hit home with a sense of fine taste. It was as if Astrid was trying to offer a tempting new perspective on her much loved masculine sportswear aesthetic by serving up a diverse new menu of options that embraced luxury and finesse with a surprisingly sweeter tooth. And for this we applaud her progress..:-)
the sweeter side
astrid andersen